Monday, December 1, 2008
Project Mustang has been idle for a couple of months because it was in need of a clutch. I knew when I got the car that the clutch was iffy and as the summer wore on so did the clutch. Summit Racing and Mustangs Unlimited to the rescue. I picked up the Ford racing nodular iron flywheel and Ford racing 'King Cobra' clutch at Mustangs Unlimited. The Ford racing aluminum driveshaft and Lakewood universal joints at Summit Racing. My trusty mechanics at #1 Decatur Pro installed the parts for me. Huge difference! The clutch engages right off the floor and grabs hard. My old clutch was worn out and I knew it was time to replace it when it would only engage at the very top of pedal travel. The clutch feel is a lot different and it will take some time getting use to this new setup. In fact I stalled the car a few times while getting use to the new pedal feel. When I bang second I get a nice chirp out of the rear tires and was happy to hear and feel that on the driver side rear. It seems the posi traction is working just fine! With all new parts and it being installed correctly, the drivetrain seems very tight and seems to spin up faster. Not a huge difference in the way the car accelerates, except it has a very solid feel to it. This was more of a maintainace mod and not much of a performance mod. Hopefully my next mod with be more in the performance vain, rear gears (4.30) for example. Stay tuned.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
I have been going over how I wanted to build my engine. I have so many options, 4.6 2 valve, 4.6 4 valve like the Cobra engines, 5.4 2 or 4 valve. I could go with turbos, roots blower or a Vortech blower. Well, I just picked up an SVO intake manifold so I'm going to be building a 4.6 2V. Ford came out with the SVO intake manifold along with the SVO 2 valve heads in 1998. The 4.6 2v cams and intake for the '96 through '98 were dogs, the NPI heads were fine, just toss the cams and intake. It's one of the reasons these model years are looked down upon. In 1999 Ford came out with the 2v PI heads, PI standing for performance improved. It took the power of the 4.6 2v up to 260 HP from 215 for the non-PI heads. The SVO parts were made to help the underpowered SN95 Mustangs. The intake manifold was not around long. Ford came out with the Bullitt intake for their 2001 Bullitt Mustang. The Bullitt intake is similar to the SVO, it just works with the PI heads. The SVO heads are still being made and they are the best flowing 2 valve heads you can put on a modular 4.6. So my plan now is to build a 2v SVO engine with no power adder, all N/A (naturally aspirated). With cams, long tube headers and the normal bolt ons I should see around 300 HP at the wheels. This intake is very hard to find because the Ford Factory Stock racers snapped them all up for their race cars. I got really lucky and did a Google search for them and found them up in Cartersville GA at a place called, Modular PowerHouse, or MPH. They are a great bunch of guys that love to hot rod Mustangs. I have a feeling that they will be seeing a lot of me!
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Click the photo for a larger view.... I found the LED gauge cluster mod at this link. The instructions are great and Trey did a fantastic job on this write up. If you follow his instructions this mod is very easy. I first did this to my wife's 1998 v6 convertible. It took me longer because some of the parts are different than what is in his writeup. Today I did my GT and it only took two hours and I was taking my time. I also had to polish my gauge cluster so that took some extra time. You can get the bulbs here. Just do a search for WLED-R5. The cost is not so bad, $2.99 plus .95 cents for the cool white version. You need 7 bulbs, two for the HVAC cluster and 5 for the gauge cluster. My gauge cluster was a tad dim and when I found Trey's write up over at my other hangout, sn95forums.com, I thought I'd give it a try. Wow, I love the way it looks now, brighter and a nice cool blue. The blue is from a film that Ford puts behind the gauge so the warm yellow old bulbs would make the gauge glow greenish. With the cool white it has a very nice blue glow that I like very much. I'm very happy I found Trey's write up and if you do this mod please send him a message to thank him.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
I'm back from my test drive after changing the spark plugs, wires and cleaning the MAF. I forgot to mention that I also replaced both four tower coil packs with the MSD four tower blaster coil packs. The sales copy says: "These new coils from MSD are designed to be bolt-in replacements for OEM coils but with a hotter spark that improves performance. They are designed with better materials and windings to help burn the fuel mixture more efficiently which results in a smoother idle and more mid range power." They were easy to bolt in, four bolts per coil pack, unplug the coil connector put wires back in the correct place and you are good to go. I did notice a much smoother idle and no stumbling in 5th gear with the cruise control on. After all this work the GT idles better, accelerates smoother and is smoother in cruise control at low RPMs. So I'm very happy with the results. I got the plugs and coil packs at Mustangs Unlimited and the Ford Racing 9mm plug wires at Summit Racing.
The GT had thrown some some error codes and the idle was a tad rough so I thought it was a good time to do some tune up items. I went to this link and followed the instructions on cleaning the MAF. Keeping the wires clean is important if your computer is going to get a correct reading on the amount of air that is coming into the intake. I have a K&N cold air induction and I had just cleaned and oiled the filter element. The info at the link above said that the oil from the filter can coat the wires and skew the signal reading. They looked clean, but I wanted to make sure. I just hit them with a blast of quick drying contact cleaner and let them air dry before I put the whole thing back together.
Friday, June 20, 2008
This past weekend I used four different Zaino products on my car. I started with the Z-PC polishing compound that you don't use all the time, just when you want to get a glass smooth base and take off the stuff that is stuck in your paint. Then I used their all in one wax, Z-AIO which is a polish, wax and leaves a protective layer. The next step is the clear seal, Z-CS that you rub on and walk away, no buffing. It self levels to leave another UV protective layer to protect your paint. Then after 12 hours I topped it all off with Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal. The car is now as smooth as glass and looks great. It is amazing what this product has done for the original ten year old paint! Photos are below. You can read all about Zaino at: Go to this link for the Zaino Store.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
At lunch Friday I went by Tim Stewart Ford Lincoln Mercury at 5675 Peachetree Industrial Blvd, Atlanta, GA 30341 and went to the parts department to have a key made. They told me it was $45 for the key and $90 to program it for my car. I'm not going to pay $135 for a key! So I'll have to call around to independent locksmiths or find a way to defeat the PATS systems so I can us a normal skinny $1.25 home depot key.
I have also read that some Ford dealers will not rape you for the cost on programing your key. If that is so then shame on you Tim Stewart Ford Lincoln Mercury!
It took me a total of 3 hours for this install. I took my time, that is the nice thing about working on a car that is not your daily driver, no real rush to get it done. After I put it all back together I fired it up and watched the belt for any wobbles. It tracked true, so I went in, washed up and took the GT for a spin.
I noticed the engine wants to rev. freer and it had a tad more pull over my last mod. I could feel more power, just not as much as what the Diablo performance tune gave me. The old harmonic balancer was looking ratty so this mod made sense for a performance and maintenance standpoint. A win / win if you ask me!
Below are the photos of the install. The first is of the crank pulley puller that I got at O'Reilly Auto Parts, it was $14.99 and it worked great! The second photo is of both set of pulleys, the factory set is on the left. The third photo is the engine getting ready for the new pulleys and the forth is the completed install. All and all this mod was worth the money and time it took to install.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Sunday, June 1, 2008
I went out looking for a tuner this weekend and ended up buying the Diablosport Predator. I drove down to Summit Racing again this weekend to look at tuners. They had two for the Mustang GT. The Diablo that I ended up buying and the Granatelli Fuego Flash Tuner. The thing that I did like about the Granatelli was the fact that you can use it on up to six Ford vehicles and their website said it will datalog. Well, after doing some research on the web I had seen nothing but negative reviews about that tuner. To sum up what I had read was this gem of a quote: " DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON GMS.. That tuner is craptastic.." So after looking at both, I will have to say that the build quality was better on the Diablo. It was a little more money and you can only use it for one vehicle, but most of the reviews I had read online were positive. Plus there are two shops that are close by that will make custom tunes once I have an engine that is modified enough to warrant a dyno tune.
I am aware of another quality tuner out there for the Mustangs and that would be the SCT SF3 Power Flash. I have also heard nothing but good things about SCT, but while reading their manual I came across this: "X3 Power Flash VIN locks to a single vehicle. You cannot use the device to tune a new or different vehicle, until you have returned the original vehicle back to stock, which will unlock the device. You can only change vehicles 5 times before the unit is permanently locked." With the Diablo tuner you can change to any number of vehicles, you just have to put back the stock program before you move on to another vehicle. That right there knocked SCT out of the running for me. Now it looks like the new SCT LiveWire tuner does not have the 5 vehicle limit, but it is way out of my price range.
After I got it home, I went to The Diablo website and downloaded the software and the updates for this tuner. The instructions were great and the process was painless. Another neat feature is using this hand held tuner to do 'check engine' diagnostics. It reads the fault codes from your OBDII port and if your 'check engine' light is on it will list the fault codes with explanations. After you read those fault codes then you can clear them and turn off the 'check engine' light. My check engine light has been coming on every now and then and by checking the codes they are more from the light mods I have on my car (cat back FlowMasters and K&N cold air induction). A custom tune will take care of these.
After I cleared my fault codes I went for a drive so I could burn up some of the last bits of gas I had in my tank. I know, it's tough to HAVE to drive your car around burning up gas! The reason to empty the tank was so I could fill it with 93 octane fuel. The Diablo Performance tune requires 93 octane. I filled up the tank and headed home to flash the computer with the Diablo Performance tune. This took maybe 5 minutes tops and was very easy because of the excellent menu on the tuner. After it was done, I unhooked the tuner from the OBDII port and fired up the GT. As soon as I hit the street I could tell a difference on how my Mustang now accelerates, it has more power lower in the RPM range. When I took it on the freeway ramp and stomped on it, there was a noticeable difference on how hard the car pulled down the ramp. I was all smiles!
I'm very happy with this tuner. I have just scratched the surface on what it can do, but for now it has helped my project car move down the road a little faster. As I add more mods I'll be able to use it to upgrade my tune to keep up with my modifications. Another good weekend upgrade!
Oh, I'm still waiting on the Steeda underdrive pulleys. Called Mustangs Unlimited and they said that the order should be in by the 10th of June.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
I also did some research when I got home and got this info from the All Ford Mustangs site. Looks like I made the right move by going with the Steeda. We will see.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Another Mustang parts place that is close to me is Mustangs Unlimited. That is where I picked up a set of seat extenders. I'm 6'6" and my legs were a tad cramped so they kit helped out a bunch! It moves the seat back 4.5" and raises it up 1/2" so if you are also a tall Mustang owner you might want to check out a set.
While searching the internet for different looking silver Mustangs I came across the web page:www.silvermustangs.com It is a registry site just for silver Mustangs. They are a fun bunch of folks, so if you own a silver Mustang register and get your own SMR# Even of you don't own a silver Mustang, come over and check out the fourms.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
On May 14th 2008 my search ended for the car I wanted to hot rod. I found a very clean 1998 Silver Mustang GT. It has the original 4.6 L 2V engine. The car also has a 5 speed and just two modifications, a K&N cold air tube and a pair of FlowMaster mufflers. The interior is black leather which is in great shape. The body is straight, the car tracks true and there does not seem to be any major mechanical problems. I did take it to a shop where they do work for me on my other cars. The muffler brackets were loose so one of the pipes were rubbing on the rear sway bar and they found a leak from the water pump. I had them repair those problems and put in a 180 degree thermostat. This will not be a daily driver. Right now I'm driving it back and forth from work to get a feel on how the car handles and to see if any other problems pop up that the guys back at the shop might have missed.
The purpose of this blog is to document this project. I'm doing this to keep track on what I have done and to help keep the project on track by giving myself goals. The main goal is listed in the header of this blog. I want make a Mustang that run 12 seconds at the dragstrip on street tires, well, at least on drag radials.
So if you are interested in the documentation of the building of a hot rod and to see what works and what does not, just keep an eye on this blog.