Another photo to help show the size of the truck. It's got new silicon body mounts that are 3 inches taller than stock. I'm 6' 6" and I still have to use the running boards to get up into the truck. It is really nice being above the traffic so you can see what is going on up ahead.
Saturday, April 21, 2018
A 2005 Ford F-250 XLT Super Duty, Super Cab, four wheel drive. It has the full tow commander package and can tow up to 12,500 LBS. I'll get more photos up later. Oh, the Mustang is back in the garage...
Wednesday, April 18, 2018
The car has been outside for over a year now. For the last six months it has been under some scrub trees and looked like this:
I soaked it with the foam cannon.
Then I just used the pressure washer. No hand washing just touchless with the washer.
I believe that the crud was easy to spray off is under all that crud was a car polished in Zanio.
I like Zaino and have used it since I got the GT back in 1008, but I'm going to give Turtle Wax Ice a try. I can get it locally so if I run out of something I can just run down to the store and get more.
The Mustang is going back into the garage and won't see the outside much so I'm sure the Turtle Wax will do the job.
I'll post again this Saturday or Sunday about the surprise!
Thursday, March 29, 2018
Friday, June 30, 2017
Since my decision to pull the GT off the road and make it a drag racing car I had to go through a couple things to get it off the road. I called my insurance agent to cancel the insurance, but he told me that the State of Georgia will fine me if I don't turn in my tag and tell the State that the car is no longer on the road.
I thought that by not renewing the tag would be enough for the state to know it's not on the road anymore, but I was wrong. So, before turning in my tag I had to fill in the empty space with something new. I searched Amazon and found this Ford Racing plate for $6.99 with free two day shipping since I'm a Prime member.
I got the plate today and installed it. I'm not sure if the tag office will be open on Monday because of the 4th of July holiday. If not I'll have to wait until Wednesday to turn it in and cancel my insurance.
A very small upgrade and a small step toward my race car project, but "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." -Lao Tzu
Or to put it another way, "A journey of many quarter miles begins with a single step."
Friday, June 16, 2017
My Street / Strip Project is dead. The new transceiver did not fix the problem. From today, I only have four days to get my emissions checked and get my tags. That is not happening, so off the road my Mustang goes, to start life as a drag car that will also be trailered to parking lot shows.
I am not going to dump a bunch of money into the car to chase down an electrical problem. So far I'm leaning toward a carbureted build using the 4.6 Edelbrock intake, a 650 CFM carburetor and the MSD Ignition Controller Mod 6. This way I can strip out all the 19 year old wiring and start fresh. I'll need a wiring kit to wire the rest of the car, something like the Bare Bones Wiring Kit from Ron Francis.
I will strip out what I don't need and sell it on eBay or Craigslist to fund this. Things like the perfect all black leather interior, the '98 gas tank with the SVO Focus racing pump, the Mach 360 stereo system, the EFI wiring harness with the ECU and the heavy 18x9 Bullitt wheels and tires.
I know it's odd to strip apart a super clean 1998 Mustang just to drag race it, but I will be starting with a car I know, that has not been in an accident and will make a great platform for a race car. I have only driven the car 7,000 miles since I got it 9 years ago. This will start out as a budget build. I'm going to try and get as much as I can used except for the MSD Mod 6 and the wiring kit.
The downside is I can never drive it on the street again. The upside is I don't have to worry about keeping it emissions legal and I won't have the yearly costs of insurance and tags.
Friday, June 9, 2017
OK, I talked to a mobile locksmith and he does not think it is a problem with the key. He thinks it's a problem with the transceiver module, a blown fuse, a short or a bad relay. I checked all the fuses and they look fine. I looked in the owner's manual for my car and did not see a relay for the PATS / Anti-Theft system. So I took the steering column apart and removed the PATS transceiver. I have ordered one off eBay for $25 shipped.
It took a bit to get the covers off and the large metal plate from under the dash off to get access to all the screws for the cover. I had to fiddle a bit with the connectors and finally got them loose. The transceiver is held on with a T-20 bolt. My T-20 bit seemed a bit large but I was able to get the job done with some extra force. There is a wire going to the ring where the lock cylinder goes and there is a small brass tab that looks like it makes contact with the lock cylinder. It had a bit of white lithium grease on it. I'll make sure that is cleaned and re-lubed when I put it all back together. I hope my next post is one that reports the car has started and is running.
Tuesday, May 2, 2017
Well, went to take the Mustang out to the carwash. Started right up, I backed down the driveway and it stalls. I try and start it again, but it just cranks over. I take the key out, put it back in and try and start it and the Theft light is blinking again. Ugggg.
I did the key reset, it did not work the first try, but does the second. So, I'm not going to drive this thing until I get a new key. Not sure if the transponder is weak or it was because the key was back on it's ring, but I have to get this fixed if I'm going to drive it without worrying about getting stranded somewhere.
Friday, April 28, 2017
I wanted to make sure that the A/C was bad in the car before I pulled it out. I had noticed that the compressor would try and cycle on every now and then, but would not stay on. If the system is not charged the compressor will cycle like that till you charge it.
I got a bottle of A/C Pro by STP and tried to charge it. The gauge on bottle said that my system had a full charge, in fact was a bit over charged. I thought this might have been from a cheap gauge so I tried to put a bit in. It did nothing for the system, the compressor still only cycled now and then and the A/C did not get any colder, I had a thermometer on it, no change.
I then checked my daily driver and it was a bit low, it took just about the whole can and dropped the temp 10 degrees.
So that is that, I'll be pulling the A/C to take some weight off the nose of the car. I'll post some photos when I get around to doing that.
Tuesday, April 25, 2017
The transponder inside a PATS Key.
I decided to throw caution to the wind and take the Mustang out to do some chores. I made many stops and the car started each and every time. I had my cellphone and AAA auto club card with me just in case. I thought I'd state exactly what I did just in case someone else is searching the net for an answer to their Mustang key problem.
This is what I did to reset, or pair my PATS key with my car after the battery had been dead in it for months:
1.) Put key in ignition and turn it to the on position, don't start.
2.) Wait 10 minutes for the the Theft light to go out, it may go out earlier, just make sure you wait more than 10 minutes total.
3.) Take key out of ignition.
4.) With your remote key fob, lock and unlock the car a few times.
5.) Put key in ignition and turn it to the on position, wait for the Theft light to go out, then start the car.
Here is a video that helped me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_kUlojMdYw
His car is a New Edge Mustang, 1999 - 2004. Mine is an SN95 Mustang a 1998. Just be warned that this might be just for the '98 and up Mustangs. My wife had a early 1998 Mustang and the key was different than mine. My car was made in Oct. '98. Hope this helps anyone that is stuck.