Friday, April 28, 2017
I wanted to make sure that the A/C was bad in the car before I pulled it out. I had noticed that the compressor would try and cycle on every now and then, but would not stay on. If the system is not charged the compressor will cycle like that till you charge it.
I got a bottle of A/C Pro by STP and tried to charge it. The gauge on bottle said that my system had a full charge, in fact was a bit over charged. I thought this might have been from a cheap gauge so I tried to put a bit in. It did nothing for the system, the compressor still only cycled now and then and the A/C did not get any colder, I had a thermometer on it, no change.
I then checked my daily driver and it was a bit low, it took just about the whole can and dropped the temp 10 degrees.
So that is that, I'll be pulling the A/C to take some weight off the nose of the car. I'll post some photos when I get around to doing that.
Tuesday, April 25, 2017
The transponder inside a PATS Key.
I decided to throw caution to the wind and take the Mustang out to do some chores. I made many stops and the car started each and every time. I had my cellphone and AAA auto club card with me just in case. I thought I'd state exactly what I did just in case someone else is searching the net for an answer to their Mustang key problem.
This is what I did to reset, or pair my PATS key with my car after the battery had been dead in it for months:
1.) Put key in ignition and turn it to the on position, don't start.
2.) Wait 10 minutes for the the Theft light to go out, it may go out earlier, just make sure you wait more than 10 minutes total.
3.) Take key out of ignition.
4.) With your remote key fob, lock and unlock the car a few times.
5.) Put key in ignition and turn it to the on position, wait for the Theft light to go out, then start the car.
Here is a video that helped me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_kUlojMdYw
His car is a New Edge Mustang, 1999 - 2004. Mine is an SN95 Mustang a 1998. Just be warned that this might be just for the '98 and up Mustangs. My wife had a early 1998 Mustang and the key was different than mine. My car was made in Oct. '98. Hope this helps anyone that is stuck.
Monday, April 24, 2017
OK, it is working......for now.
I looked around on some Ford forums and found a suggestion to take the key off the keyring. Extra metal can sometimes mess with the transponder. My key ring is metal, it also has another key that is not a chip key, but a Home Depot full metal key that is cut for my car. It works with the trunk and doors, but won't start the car unless I have the PATS system turned off in a tune.
Well, I put just the key in, turned it and got the flashing THEFT light. I then started to wait the 10 minutes for the reset. While I was waiting the THEFT light did it's normal thing, blinked fast, after about 1 minutes it started to blink slowly, a few minutes later it blinks once, then three times fast then goes out for a bit, then back to the once blink then three fast. It then goes out completely. I still wait because the 10 minutes is not over yet. Then it does something it has not done before, the "Check Engine" light comes on. The car is not running and I thought this is odd.
After 10 minutes I took the key out, locked and unlocked the car via the remote fob a few times. I then put the key and only the key back in the ignition and turned it. All the lights come on and after a few seconds the THEFT light goes out. I turn the key and it starts. Yea!
I waited a few minutes and started it a few more times and no THEFT light problem. I am hoping all the metal on the keyring messed up the ECU / PATS reset the first time around.
I am still nervous about driving this thing. I would hate stalling the car, it's a 5 speed, and then not be able to start it. Or go to the store, come out and it not start. I'm going to test it for a few days to make sure this reset has really fixed it this time.
I hope this is the last PATS key post I make! It does look like I'll just have to bite the Bullitt* and get a new key cut and programed at Ford.
* Intentional Mustang pun...
Sometimes I want to blow up my car!
I went outside to take the Mustang to the carwash and it would not start, again. Same 'Theft' light problem. I tried the things that worked in my last post and nothing. Sigh.
I have a Diablo tuner and I hear you can disable PATS in a tune. The problem with that is my tuner is locked. I tried to test something on Nancy's car and it 'married' it to her car and I could not fix it. Diablo charges $129 to unlock the tuner, Ford charges $135 for a key and that was when it worked with one key I'm sure it would be a ton of money now. I'll have to research this some more. I'll update after it's fixed or even if it is not and I have tried something. ARRRggggg!!!
Friday, April 21, 2017
The battery in my Mustang died. It was over nine years old so I got some good use out of it. I had not driven the Mustang in months so there was no power going to the car for awhile.
I got another battery, installed it, turned the key and it just turned over and did not start. The "Theft" light was blinking and would not turn on the fuel pump so I could start the car.
I looked on the internet for a fix and the first thing I tried was just let the ECU reset by leaving it alone for a few hours. I left it alone overnight. That did not work, still a flashing Theft light.
I then found a key reset video on Youtube that used a remote. I don't have a remote, but I gave it a shot. It worked, once. The light came back on again and would not start.
My wife had a '98 Mustang that is long gone now, but there was a spare remote. I tried to pair it with the car, but the batteries in it were dead. Off to Amazon to get some coin batteries.
They came in today, I put them in, paired the remote with my car and tried to start it. No go again.
I then waited 10 mins. after I put the key in to wait for the Theft light to go out. I took the key out, unlocked and locked the doors with the remote, tried to start the car, but the Theft light came back on. I took the key out again, used the remote to lock and unlock the doors a few times, tried to start it and it worked, but the Theft light was blinking while it was running.
I then just drove around the neighborhood for 15 mins. and the light went out. I went home, turned off the car and tried to start it again. It worked and no flashing Theft light this time.
I have gone out a few times today and it still works fine. I would hate to go somewhere and have the thing not start up leaving me stranded, but it seems to be working fine right now.
I hope to post more to this blog in 2017. I did not post at all in 2016. My A/C is dead and I'm thinking I'm going to get an A/C delete pulley and start to lighten the car. I'm also thinking about moving the battery to the trunk. I'm also toying with the idea of getting rid of the 18x9 Bullitt Wheels, because they weigh 30 pounds each. The 17x8 wheels that came with the car only weigh 21 pounds that is a bunch of unsprung weight to lose. Plus Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires in 245/45r 17" sell for only $118 each from Summit Racing. I'll post more when those things happen.
Thursday, June 4, 2015
Well, I have found an alternative to the PI heads that Ford Racing have discontinued. They are Modular Headshop MHS 2V PI Romeo StockMod Heads. These are used heads that have been inspected and given a complete performance rebuild. They are $1.2k a pair and that does not include cams.
I have read on their site before that used PI cams run $50 so add that and getting the extra .030" decking done for $20 would bring the price to under $1.3k. Not as good of a deal as new heads and cams from Ford, but for all the work that is done on them the extra $400-$500 seems worth it and really the best choice for the type of build I am looking to do.
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Gone are the 2 valve PI heads that were used on the 1999 thru 2004 Mustang GT. I'm guessing that since it has been 10 years since the last 2 valve Mustang rolled off the assembly line that it was time to retire these cylinder heads.
The last time this happened to me was back in 2008. I saw in the Ford Racing catalog that they were still selling the SVO 2 valve heads that went on the 1996 thru 1998 NPI engine. I found a good deal on the SVO intake (seen above) which had been very rare and hard to find. After getting the intake I was saving for the SVO heads. Then in 2009 the SVO heads were gone from the Ford Racing catalog.
Lesson learned. Get your Ford Racing parts while they are still in the catalog. It's a shame, the PI heads came with cams and both could have been had for around $800 - $900 for the pair, new.
So my options now are the new 2 valve Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads for over $2k for the pair and add another $600 for cams. Get a pair of used / reconditioned PI heads from someone like Modular Head Shop or get a pair of used / reconditioned NPI ported heads for my SVO intake. Those last two would come with cams at around $2.3k for stage 1 or $2.7k for stage 2.
Making power for the 4.6 modular 2 valve engine has just gotten really expensive. Jegs sells a Chevy 350 ci long block (heads and complete lower-end) for under $2k. Add a carburetor and a cam and that would make more power than I could with the any of the combos I listed above.
I'm going to have to think really hard on whether or not to continue with this project....
Saturday, October 25, 2014
Even though I have not posted in almost two years I still have the Mustang and I still plan on upgrading it. Sorry for the cobwebs....
Still waiting on extra funds to put into the car. Once I have those funds I'm going to do the rear axle first. Some 4.10 Ford Racing gears, new axles, new Ford Racing posi-traction differential with the carbon fiber discs just like the one they put in the '03 - '04 Cobra. I wanted to go with the 4.30 gear, but Ford has discontinued those so 4.10 it is.
I know some might think the 4.10 is a bit much for the street, but this is not a daily driver and I have only put 7k miles on the car since I got it back in May of 2008, so I'm really not worried about some loss in gas mileage.
That will be the first step. The next big step will be the Ford Racing PI heads and cams. I don't want to go with aftermarket cams, I want to keep it all Ford as I have said in the past. Plus, the new heads with valves and cams cost $800 and a set of aftermarket cams cost $600 alone. I want to keep this simple and if I get 275 to 300 hp to the crank I'll be a happy man. The PI engine got 260 HP stock. With the bump in compression and the bolt on accessories I should be able to reach that goal easy.
Just thought I should update so I can have at least one post on the blog this year.
Monday, December 31, 2012
I have decided to head in another direction with my build. The followers of this page have watched me work toward a street / strip car. I modified the build a bit when I added the Bullitt handling kit. After living with the kit for over a year now I really don't have any interest in drag racing the car anymore. It would just cost to much money to make a car that takes a pounding at the strip. Plus there is no getting around it, a strip suspension is way different than a handling one. I'm on the road more than I would be at at the strip so I'm going for more of a road build. One that echoes the 1965 Shelby GT 350.
After some bench racing with my brother-in-law Jay, I think we have come up with a plan. First the goal would be to try and get close to the specifications of the '65 GT 350. The three main specifications that I'm after on the GT 350 are, 306 hp, 329 lbs-ft torque and a weight of 2,800 pounds. We have also added a limiting factor to make this goal. Try and only use Ford parts whenever possible. By putting a limit on what we can buy we have to get creative and it will keep the costs down since we won't be looking at blowers or turbos and the like.
The first number is horsepower and that should be easy to get with just bolt-ons. My car has the NPI engine in it and it is listed at 225hp stock. I have a few bolt-on's already, under-drive pulleys, Flowmaster cat back, cold air induction and a Diablo tune. Even with these mods I'm sure I'm well short of the 306hp goal. However, doing a PI head / Cam swap and bolt on's will get me close to 275rwhp / 295rwtq and using a 15% conversion that comes to around 316 hp and 339 tq at the flywheel. That takes care of both the hp and tq goals right there.
The last spec is curb weight. The Shelby is listed at 2,800 lbs and my GT is listed at 3,278 lbs. So to match that spec the GT will have to shed 478 lbs. This goal would be a long term one. First I can start with the easy free stuff like a rear seat delete, getting rid of the Mach 460 sound system and various other tricks can shed a couple of hundred pounds quick and cheap. Getting those last pounds off will be more of a challenge. Using this link will help figure out what to take out or replace:
Well, those are the new goals. I'm looking forward to building this beast.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Just kidding! My Mustang GT has been sitting quietly in my garage for a year and a half since I added the tires and handling kit. Work is slow and I really don't have to money to put into what is essentially a toy. I have taken it out a few times to stretch it's legs and to make sure it's fluids get moved around.
Even though I have thought about selling it, it really would not make any sense. It's paid for, it makes a great back up car in case one of our other cars needs to go into the shop and I would not get that much for it anyway. For some reason the 1996-1998 Mustangs are not very popular with the masses. Kind of like the Mustang II. The 4.6 modular engine was not a hit with the 5.0 pushrod crowd. I love the look of the 94-98 (SN95) cars. they have a very sleek sports car look while retaining some of the classic Mustang styling, but the retro craze seems to get all the attention.
I'm sad I missed the SITH (Silver in the Hills), the Silver Mustang club meeting this year. The past years it has been in Stone Mountain GA which is six miles from me. So money was never an excuse to miss it. This year they moved it to Maggie Valley, NC and I was planing to go up on Saturday and come back the same day, but our other '98 Mustang had to go into the shop on Saturday for repair so that took away from any extra cash we had to make the trip. I hope things will turn around so I can make it next year.
So, even though I have thought of selling it, I really can't because I love the car and I would not be able to get enough money out of it for the money I have spent on upgrades. Even though I do not have the funds to do what I want to the car at least I have a project car that is in great working order for when this economy turns around and I have the cash to sink into it.
I had not made an update on the blog for over a year so I thought I'd post up some of my thoughts just so anyone that reads this blog will know the project is not dead and that I have not given up on getting this project done!